Monday 17th Jan….
From my first day in Malawi it was clear why Malawi is so often referred to as the ‘warm heart of Africa’. My arrival in Ruawre only confirmed how true this was.
I don’t think I ever been anywhere quite like this. It is the most magical, beautiful, place I could ever imagine being lucky enough to travel to, let alone live for 4 months.
I would be lying if were to say I wasn’t a little anxious about leaving Nkhata bay and moving my base to the most remote village in the whole of Malawi. I would be leaving behind electricity, clean running water, Internet, mobile phone reception and access to local shops…to name but a few luxuries!
We went to bed on Sunday unsure of when the Ilala Ferry would come into dock…it could arrive at anytime, so we had to be prepared for a middle of the night dash into town. Low and behold, I was woken up at 2am by a blast of the horn to warn people as it comes into dock…
Al (project manager of Phunzira) and I trekked into town with backpacks, and arrived at 3am only to find out the boat wouldn’t leave till 7am, so Al suggested we slept on the beach for a few hours. Now the last time I slept on the beach I woke up with a body swollen to twice its normal due to mosquito bites, so it goes without saying I was a little wary of this idea, however Al reassured me there were no mosi’s here. Now call me paranoid but I literally drenched myself in mosi repellent, and then proceed to wrap my entire face and body into a mummy like state with sleeping bag and Chitengee’s (Malawian sarongs). I woke at 6, stifling hot, but mosi bite free!
Catching the Ilala is no straightforward feat. It runs to a fairly ‘unpredictable’ timetable, and knowing when it is leaving requires you to simply listen to the number of blasts on the horn. It blasts its horn once when coming into dock, (basically a wake up call) and then a few hours later (and this could as many hours later as it chooses) it omits two more blasts, to tell you that you have (approx) one hour till departure. During this time you have to load any supplies on the boat-, which is easier said than done when you also have to find people to pay to help you load. This time round we had around 10 bags of cement and lime and before we had even loaded 1 bag, the boat gives its last and final blast on the horn to tell us we have 15 mins till the boat leaves. At this point the emphasis moves to getting yourself the on boat on time....
It’s a mad last minute rush. Me Al and Rosa make it on the boat, with just 4 bags of cement in the end. The rest will have to get sent up on the next ferry….
The Ilala is a Really Beautiful Boat Made from Parts brought over from Glasgow. A far cry from anything P&O have to offer, but in my opinion that’s not a bad thing at all. The boat is divided into classes- economy, second and first, although I struggled to ascertain what the difference was between all three, apart from the price and how much cover you have should it rains. Instead of the cringingly bad canteen you would use on a European ferry, the Ilala has a very civilised and charming little café serving realy lovely food. Although I’m not sure we were officially allowed to use it on our economy ticket….
It takes us just 4 hours to reach Ruarwe, as the Boat is fairly empty. It’s a wonderful trip, and the coastline is stunning. The further we go, it becomes more and more obvious how small Ruarwe is going to be. Usisiya is the largest port of call en-route, and it’s tiny.
Pulling into Ruarwe, I am both excited at how beautiful it is here, but also a little worried. This is very rural.
The ferry drops the anchor a few hundered metres from the shore where what looks like most of the village has gathered. A smaller powerboat comes to collect anyone disembarking, and we all pile onto it, along with any cargo. Smaller canoes, made from dug out tree trucks, surround the boat too, collecting cargo and people alike.
And then I’m there. Stood on the beach in Ruarwe, my home for the next 4 months, and now surrounded by about 50 kids going nuts and all desperate to hold my hand.
Everyone is very friendly and keen to introduce them selves, its pretty overwhelming, but lovely to see how welcoming people are.
Our bags get carried to Zulunkhuni lodge where I will be staying, and Rosa takes me to ‘Nyumba ya massambiro’ House of Learning…the centre the Phunzira has built with the community. It’s an incredible sight. Having spent the past 6 months researching and fundraising for this charity it really does make it all worth it to see the actual buildings in front of me-very near completion. What a fantastic accomplishment for everyone involved and for all that have donated and fundraised on its behalf. I can’t wait to get back here tomorrow and be a part of it too.
The Libary
Bessie- (Crop gardens to the right)
Classroom one
The Project Managers House (Al)
Nyumba ya MasambiroThe walk to Zulunkhuni Lodge is stunning and follows a narrow rocky path along the lakeshore past various small groups of houses- kids and adults fishing too. I Cant help smile as I realise this is my new commute to and from work every day.
The lodge is amazing. A real paradise. Its Nestled into lush green hills and surrounded by waterfalls. The accommodation and bar has been so well designed. And although the facilities are basic by western standards this feels more like a high-end resort in so many respects. It take my breath away. I’m spoilt for choice of which chalet to stay in, and decide that throughout my stay I will try them all. This time I opt for the smallest, mainly because it boasts such a great balcony. This is where the ‘jumping platform’ is. Needless to say I haven’t taken the 8 metres plunge off the side of it yet-The lake is too low at the moment- which suits me for now as I’m a big woos-bag- Who for now is more than happy to perch on the side of it and simply admire the view!
My chalet at the Zulunkhuni Lodge
Not a bad view to wake up every morning....!
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