Sun...smiles and wiggly bums....

Friday 21^st January

After almost 5 days in Ruarwe something has become clear to me. The only thing anyone would ever have to worry about before coming here to Ruarwe is that you can never prepare yourself for how much you will love it here. All practical concerns I may have had concerning no Internet, no phones, icky creepy crawlies, and living in such basic living conditions all collapse into insignificance. The people here make it so easy to fall head over heels in love with the place and the people from day one.

All photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

People have very little here- kids have no toys- and the standard of living is very low, Yet on the surface at least, everyone seems so happy- kids are always smiling. Everyone goes out of their way to make you feel welcome.

Every day this week I have worked at the centre. I wake up everyday around 6am, sometimes earlier just to check out the sunrise. I’m trying to kick my coffee habit but still can’t resist one in the morning. The Malawian coffee here is dark and delicious. (Served in a teapot with a tea strainer!). Around 8.30 I walk into Ruarwe Village to the centre which takes me around half and hour, depending on how many people stop me en-route to chat. As the week goes on my Chi-tombukka improves, and its lovely to be able to offer a local ‘hello, how are you to people’.

All photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

It’s a great feeling arriving at the centre, everyone shouts ‘hello Emma’ and seems genuinely excited to see me- I’m the new volunteer though and maybe the novelty will wear off for them after a few weeks!

My initial week will be spent getting a feel for the place and the people, so that I am in a better headspace to know what classes to run at the centre. This project relies on volunteers to be able to be pretty much self initiate projects within the community,with the community, so This its important I spend some time working out what is important to people here so that they can be continued when I leave.

I’ve made a massive effort this week to get to know all the workers on site, and as many people in the village as possible. I was keen to get involved with the manual labour from day one, and as a result have already formed some great relationships with people. My favourite task this week was collecting stones with the women. The men smash up massive rocks on the side of steams and then the women’s job is to transport these smaller rocks back to the site, where they are used to build walls and damns etc

Leah Collecting Stones for a new wall....

Me and Edes...

Me and the Gals....

All photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

 I am showed how to wind up my chitengee (beautifully printed Pieces of material used by women as sarongs and skirts)into a coil and then place it on my head, tied with a smaller scarf, to keep it secure. This will protect my head and allow me to place a large stone on top ( I manage one or two, most of the women balance around 4, with no hands to support them!) I walk in line with the other women, which they find very entertaining! Minus, one of the ladies has everyone in stitches as she impersonates my wiggly bum as I walk at my faster than average pace. I am continuously told to slow down, but in the heat, I’m afraid if I do I might stop altogether- Malawians apparently walk slower than anyone else on earth, and this obviously doesn’t change when they are working- nothing gets done very fast- it’s a shame they can’t adopt this same approach when they get behind the wheel of a car.

 Its really tough work in the heat of the midday sun, and before long I’m dripping with sweat and dirt. Its so much fun though, and I’ve really bonded with these women. I get them to sing with me at one point, which goes down so well- they love it and soon we are walking and singing and bum wiggling our way through the afternoons work.

 The last floor in the centre to be cemented...

Stella preparing the cement...

All photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

Throughout the rest of the week I lend my hand to other areas on site. Moving turf around, smashing up rocks (which I have to abandon 1 hour in, due to the twenty blisters that have formed on my hands!). And of course there are photographs, many many photographs. Malawians love having their photo taken, even more so given it is the digital age and they can see the results instantaneously. People never get bored with it- young or old. My walk home from the site every day can take up to four times longer than it should due to stopping to photograph people en-route.

Photographs copyright of freckleface photography

Ruarwe at sunset....

Kids on the way home.....

Photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography 

The Volunteers kitchen on site.....

Photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

Adorable Kids following me home after work....

All Photographs copyright of Freckleface Photography

Ruarwe and 'Nyumba ya Masambiro'

Monday 17^th Jan….

From my first day in Malawi it was clear why Malawi is so often referred to as the ‘warm heart of Africa’. My arrival in Ruawre only confirmed how true this was.

I don’t think I ever been anywhere quite like this. It is the most magical, beautiful, place I could ever imagine being lucky enough to travel to, let alone live for 4 months.

I would be lying if were to say I wasn’t a little anxious about leaving Nkhata bay and moving my base to the most remote village in the whole of Malawi. I would be leaving behind electricity, clean running water, Internet, mobile phone reception and access to local shops…to name but a few luxuries!

We went to bed on Sunday unsure of when the Ilala Ferry would come into dock…it could arrive at anytime, so we had to be prepared for a middle of the night dash into town. Low and behold, I was woken up at 2am by a blast of the horn to warn people as it comes into dock…

Al (project manager of Phunzira) and I trekked into town with backpacks, and arrived at 3am only to find out the boat wouldn’t leave till 7am, so Al suggested we slept on the beach for a few hours. Now the last time I slept on the beach I woke up with a body swollen to twice its normal due to mosquito bites, so it goes without saying I was a little wary of this idea, however Al reassured me there were no mosi’s here. Now call me paranoid but I literally drenched myself in mosi repellent, and then proceed to wrap my entire face and body into a mummy like state with sleeping bag and Chitengee’s (Malawian sarongs). I woke at 6, stifling hot, but mosi bite free!

Catching the Ilala is no straightforward feat. It runs to a fairly ‘unpredictable’ timetable, and knowing when it is leaving requires you to simply listen to the number of blasts on the horn. It blasts its horn once when coming into dock, (basically a wake up call) and then a few hours later (and this could as many hours later as it chooses) it omits two more blasts, to tell you that you have (approx) one hour till departure. During this time you have to load any supplies on the boat-, which is easier said than done when you also have to find people to pay to help you load. This time round we had around 10 bags of cement and lime and before we had even loaded 1 bag, the boat gives its last and final blast on the horn to tell us we have 15 mins till the boat leaves. At this point the emphasis moves to getting yourself the on boat on time....

It’s a mad last minute rush. Me Al and Rosa make it on the boat, with just 4 bags of cement in the end. The rest will have to get sent up on the next ferry….

The Ilala is a Really Beautiful Boat Made from Parts brought over from Glasgow. A far cry from anything P&O have to offer, but in my opinion that’s not a bad thing at all. The boat is divided into classes- economy, second and first, although I struggled to ascertain what the difference was between all three, apart from the price and how much cover you have should it rains. Instead of the cringingly bad canteen you would use on a European ferry, the Ilala has a very civilised and charming little café serving realy lovely food. Although I’m not sure we were officially allowed to use it on our economy ticket….

It takes us just 4 hours to reach Ruarwe, as the Boat is fairly empty. It’s a wonderful trip, and the coastline is stunning. The further we go, it becomes more and more obvious how small Ruarwe is going to be. Usisiya is the largest port of call en-route, and it’s tiny.

Pulling into Ruarwe, I am both excited at how beautiful it is here, but also a little worried. This is very rural.

The ferry drops the anchor a few hundered metres from the shore where what looks like most of the village has gathered. A smaller powerboat comes to collect anyone disembarking, and we all pile onto it, along with any cargo. Smaller canoes, made from dug out tree trucks, surround the boat too, collecting cargo and people alike.

And then I’m there. Stood on the beach in Ruarwe, my home for the next 4 months, and now surrounded by about 50 kids going nuts and all desperate to hold my hand.

Everyone is very friendly and keen to introduce them selves, its pretty overwhelming, but lovely to see how welcoming people are.

Our bags get carried to Zulunkhuni lodge where I will be staying, and Rosa takes me to ‘Nyumba ya massambiro’ House of Learning…the centre the Phunzira has built with the community. It’s an incredible sight. Having spent the past 6 months researching and fundraising for this charity it really does make it all worth it to see the actual buildings in front of me-very near completion. What a fantastic accomplishment for everyone involved and for all that have donated and fundraised on its behalf. I can’t wait to get back here tomorrow and be a part of it too.

The Libary

Bessie- (Crop gardens to the right)

Classroom one

The Project Managers House (Al)

Nyumba ya Masambiro

The walk to Zulunkhuni Lodge is stunning and follows a narrow rocky path along the lakeshore past various small groups of houses- kids and adults fishing too. I Cant help smile as I realise this is my new commute to and from work every day.

The lodge is amazing. A real paradise. Its Nestled into lush green hills and surrounded by waterfalls. The accommodation and bar has been so well designed. And although the facilities are basic by western standards this feels more like a high-end resort in so many respects. It take my breath away. I’m spoilt for choice of which chalet to stay in, and decide that throughout my stay I will try them all. This time I opt for the smallest, mainly because it boasts such a great balcony. This is where the ‘jumping platform’ is. Needless to say I haven’t taken the 8 metres plunge off the side of it yet-The lake is too low at the moment- which suits me for now as I’m a big woos-bag- Who for now is more than happy to perch on the side of it and simply admire the view!

My chalet at the Zulunkhuni Lodge

Not a bad view to wake up every morning....!

Off to Ruarwe....

Sunday 16^th Jan 2010

Today We are meant to leave for Ruarwe on the ferry- the legendary ‘Ilala’  but last week it broke down so its now running late- almost two days late!. Its due to get into town at 5pm and leave at 8pm, but I’m told to expect to leave around 4am…The ferry runs to Malawian time!

I’m really excited to finally get up to Ruarwe and see how the project is going and meet the community. The building work will be finished by the end of January, but things have been delayed slightly -there have been a few problems getting the container with all the books and equipment into Malawi from the uk- plus all the furniture for the library and classrooms needs to be brought to Ruarwe too. At this point it looks like the official opening will now be in April.

I’m going to be working at the centre for about 8 days so I can get a feel for the place, then I’m back to Nkhata bay for a week to do some prep work for the following few months at the centre.  The aim to use the centre as much as possible before the official opening. We will be running English classes, and other life skills workshops and youth groups with the community before then, as well as the photography club and art sessions.

I’ve had a chilled morning in town, getting supplies for Ruarwe… followed by my first swim and hairwash in the lake, with Alices’ daughter ezmeekie. Its  warmer than the showers here….and such clear water. If it wasn’t for the lack of salt in the water you could easily be forgiven for thinking it’s the sea. ( plus the very unusual sightings of crocodiles the other day at another part of the lake---eeekkkk!!!- ive been told I have nothing to worry about- and hey we go swimming in the sea in Oz with the sharks right!)...Got back to my room and spent 10 mins trying to get a giant moth out of the room…Hannah…believe me this is pigeon moth country!!!....

Nkhata bay...

Saturday 15^th Jan

So I have been here in Nkhata bay for two days, and am already revelling in lakeside life.You are never short of people to chat to at butterfly, and it immediately feels like home. I have a lovely little wooden chalet overlooking the lake, which is basic, with a double bed and mosi net, and a good few Geckos to keep you company, but I’m happy as that’s all I need.

Yesterday I spent the afternoon with the youth group. A lovely group of girls aged between 9 and 13, who come along 4 days a week to the on site youth centre to draw, paint, read, write, play games, play netball. Its is also a space for the kids to come and learn about health issues, puberty and relationships etc.

I have already met so many people , both travellers and locals alike, and now face the task of remembering everyone names- a trip into town, soon becomes a major social event with people wanting to get to know you everywhere you go. I feel so guilty as everyone remembers my name and then get disapointed The men are always the most keen to have their photo taken as I wander round with my camera. No camera shy guys here. The women tend to be a little more wary, some asking that I don’t take their photo at all. I am happy of course to respect their wishes. Hopefully over time I can get to know them better and earn their trust so that I might be granted permission to photograph them too.

Saturday afternoon there is a Football match-me and freeda- a girl  get green pineapple ice cream and popcorn and go and watch. Two local teams and lots of excitement…. allthough the match seemed to last forever and I get distracted by the local kids and take lots of photos-its so great to see how excited they get when they see a photo of themselves. I seem to get distracted by the local kids what ever I do....!!!

Hello from Malawi!

21.30 Wednesday 12^th Jan

A lone traveller is never alone for long it seems. Before even leaving Johnanesburg or getting a chance to even get slightly nervous about pitching up in Africa on my own,  I had found a travel companion, with whom to embark on the first leg of my journey with. Ashley, a lovely gal from Jo-burg who happened to be travelling to the same hostel in Lilongwe. Having Someone to share you first couple of days in a new country is really lovely….would I have felt more anxious without her? Who knows, and who cares!

Flying into Lilongwe and looking down onto the lush, green, scarcely inhibited Malawian landscape instantly provokes a feeling of peace. It is so beautiful from the sky, and calm…so calm…even the small airport is still and quiet- full of friendly faces. I am met as arranged by a taxi driver who couldn’t be lovelier. Travelling from the airport to the city and taking in your first glimpse of Malawian life and its people…you realise it only going to get more beautiful.

The backpackers in Lilongwe greet us with open arms and many smiles then We walk into town along the road past 100’s of people leaving work in the opposite direction on their original ‘pashley’ style vintage bicycles.I ooh and ahh over these until I realise how sad it is that unbeknown to their owners, these bikes are worth so much in the uk now. Probably more than a years salary for some people in Malawi. I count over 100 of these within 10 mins. In the uk I once bidded on the exact bike…it went for over £300…

Lilongwe is smaller than I would ever have imagined, no high rise buildings, and given it’s the capital of Malawi, I’m amazing just how small it is, The dusty streets are lined with commuters, rammed taxi’s (combi style minibuses) and road side stalls- mostly selling mobile phones and sim cards.

 It’s pretty busy but the vibe is still very chilled. It’s an easy city to feel at ease in…I’m carrying my camera and I notice how many people glance at it, but not in threatening way. It’s a complete contrast to being in Johannesburg where I so often felt that my security was being compromised, especially walking around with my camera.

Everyone you pass says ‘hello..how are you?’ it’s a standard greeting here in Malawi  and its rare to pass someone that doesn’t acknowledge you in this way. The kind of automatic greeting you only seem to find in the uk when you are out hiking on a footpath on the English countryside. I try to imagine a life in St.Margarets where everyone you pass wants to say hello and ask you how your day is and what your name is….we would know each other so well, but it would take a hell of lot longer to get to Zorans for a coffee…..

Thursday 13^th Jan 2010

We are up at 5am to get a taxi into town to the bus station.,  Its hectic- people everywhere. I have no idea how we are meant to find our bus, but one thing you never have to worry about in Malawi is someone being around to help you with your luggage or show you where to go. As soon as we get out the taxi, we are surrounded by people wanting to take us to our bus…I’m relieved when a guy grabs my stupidly heavily backpack and pops it effortlessly onto his shoulder…but not before he reminds me he’s not doing for free. I’m happy to pay…I can barely lift my bag myself!

We follow him to our bus and I’m relieved when our bags get put on board with us under our seats as opposed to under the bus with everyone else’s stuff. I’d heard from another backpacker the night before that bags often go missing over the course of a bus journey. …

 Its not quite as ‘luxury’ as the website makes out and for a second I panic and wonder if we are on the right one, No reclining seats, toilets or air con and the seats have seen better days- the base of mine fell off when I sat down initially!  However, after looking around the rest of the bus station,  it doesn’t take too long to figure out that this IS actually the luxury bus after all. Its not too bad, and actually once we get moving I’m glad its not up to national express standards. This is Africa after all, and there is a natural pull to embrace what is real, and not hide behind western levels of luxury. With all the windows open, you are able feel more in tune to your surroundings, the sights, smells and sounds. During the entire 8 hour journey I don’t once feel the need to put on my headphones.

10 minutes into the trip I lean over the seat in front to say hello to the woman in front of me with the most gorgeous baby. The mum doesn’t waste anytime in passing her baby back over the seat to me. I can by the look on her face she’s thinking Instant babysitting service- ‘score!’ I let it bounce around on my knee for an hour or so, then as the bus gets a bit bumpier I pass her back over the seat to her mum, aware that she might actually throw up on me-with 7 hours to go its not an appealing thought.

Every so often the bus grinds to an abrupt halt on the side of the road to pick up people from the side of the road and drop people off. There are only a few ‘official’ stops in the larger villages, and here you get a swarm of people around the bus, selling food and drink to you.. Bags of bread, biscuits, bunches of bananas, cooked chicken, cooked mice (!) all sold on long poles so that you can take them in through the bus window. I’m holding back on eating or drinking too much, due to the lack of toilet facilities –say no more!!

We pass the most beautiful landscapes. Everywhere is so green. Small ‘banda’ style housing ( mud huts with straw roofs) are sporadically dotted alongside the road and are surrounded by crop gardens. Women and men work here, women carrying children on their backs as they do so. Children are playing with burnt out tyres, goats are roaming. All Scenes you have seen a thousand times of television, so much so that it almost feels like a film set.

The rest of the journey passes surpisingly fast. I chat to a very sweet young boy who is is on his way to Mzuzu to go to School ( he tells me he is 18- but I’m going with 14!). He takes it upon himself to teach me some of his local dialect. ( there are many differenent languages spoken within Malawi and I’m yet to fully understand quite how many and what parts of the country they are all spoken! ChiTombuka is spoken is Ruarwe). Its very tough to learn, especially given my incapacity for grasping new languages. Its so unfamiliar and this boy ( and most of the people at the back of bus) laugh at my rubbish attempts to remember what he is teaching me- I cant even remember the name of language he is speaking in! He resorts to writing it all down for me with the utmost precision and care.

It gets hotter and hotter the further north we go, but every so often we hit a bunch of massive clouds, and it starts to rain. Inside AND outside the bus. I don’t think I’ve ever had to wear a raincoat inside a bus before….

As we get closer to Nkhata bay, the relatively flat landscape changes dramatically- becoming mountainous with very dense green forest on the left hand side and Lake Malawi on the right. Its stunning. The roads get windier though the bus driver doesn’t let this effect the speed he travels at, and for the last couple of hours I  have to clutch onto the seats on front, to avoid sliding off into the person sitting next to me ( which I do many times- much to their amusement!).

Nkhata bay, is buzzing with energy and feels totally different to Lilongwe, which actually feels almost dull in comparison. It’s the most popular spot for travellers in Malawi and I can instantly see why. The centre of town sits in the middles of bay and is full of little roadside shops, and there is a supermarket, food market and a bank with a newly installed ATM. These all back onto the bay and then the stilted hostels, bars and restaurants are scattered along the lakeshore, on either side of the bay, Google Earth it, its gorgeous.

We get off the bus and are greeted by two very helpful, eager guys from the hostel, who bundle us into their car ( donning a massive Manchester united sticker across the windscreen). They then make an impressive attempt at ‘offroading’ in their ford fiesta style hatchback. It’s a beyond crappy road ( in fact not a road at all) that you really need a four wheel drive along, and we drive so slow that I’m thinking it may have been quicker to walk. Amazingly they do it without the exhaust falling off, though at several points I cringe as I listen to what sounds like the whole underside of the car being left behind.

Ill be staying at Butterfly space (www.butterfly-space.com) whenever I’m in Nkhata bay. Its beautiful travllers lodge, and run by a couple of English girls, Alice and Josie, both of whom I Instantly warm to- anyone would struggle not to…..

 Butterfly is not only a travellers lodge but a place for locals to convene too. The lodge also runs various community projects which amongst other things, include a youth group, and nursery. They also develop sustainable environmental and agricultural projects within the community.

South African Anticipation.....

So...a quick hello from a not so sunny Johannesburg! After a fun filled few weeks in South Africa I am now preparing to fly up to Malawi on the 12th Jan..and working out how to cram as much Mosi repellent into my backpack as possible, along with the exceedingly inappropriate amounts of technical photo equipment i'm taking with me. Is is Ironic or just stupid, that I'm travelling to a village with Zero electricity yet, my pile of electrical equipment far exceeds everything else...hmm lets hope the solar chargers work!
Will be in touch as and when it is possible to give you all the latest updates about Phunzira...along with any other travel tales and of course if possible will share some photos too....